Thursday, 30 June 2016

Free Crochet Pattern - Leap Pad 3 Crochet Case Pouch



My four year old son was pretty chuffed to receive a Leap Pad 3 touch pad for Christmas last year. I had some t-shirt yarn lying around and thought it was an ideal yarn to make a case for his new leap pad. T-shirt yarn is basically recycled t-shirts turned into yarn. Usually it’s made from cotton, jersey, or polyester. I have tried a few different varieties as well as making my own. They do vary in weight depending on how thin the strips are cut. The yarn I used for my crochet case was created by Lincraft (Australian craft store) and the gauge on the yarn label reads 11 sts and 8 rows. I got a wpi (wrap per inch) of 5-6, so this is a super bulky weight.

The Leap Pad 3 case is worked bottom up in the round. The yarn is then re-attached to make the flap. Once completed, all you need is a nice button to complete your case. I see the button like the icing on the cake so I always like to invest in nice buttons to finish my projects. Here I used a beautiful handcrafted button by Nullarbor Beads. I didn’t add lining to my case as the t-shirt yarn is so thick and durable it didn’t seem necessary, but you may like to add lining to yours. You might even like to add an applique like my free crochet pattern for a  Superman Emblem to decorate your pouch. 





Copyright
Please do not reproduce or distribute any part of this pattern without permission. Items created from this pattern may be sold by individuals on a small-scale, but please acknowledge Roaming Pixies as designer. Mass production is not permitted.


Pattern Notes

Pattern is written in US terminology


Gauge
14 sts and 9 rows in dc

Materials
Main Colour – 140gr (65m/71 yds) t-shirt/super bulky yarn
5mm - H - hook or other hook size to achieve gauge


Leap Pad 3 Crochet Case Pattern


Pouch Section 

The pouch segment is worked in the round. Join each round with a slip stitch. h 1, and ch2, at beginning of round does not count as stitch. 

Rnd 1   Using MC, ch 25, working in the top chain loop only 2sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next 22 sts, 2sc in last st, now turn and work across the unworked bottom loop of the chain: 2sc in first bottom chain loop, sc in next 22 sts, 2sc in last st (52)

Rnd 2   ch 1, sc in first st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 22 sts, *sc in next st, 2sc in next* twice, sc in next 23 sts, 2sc in last st (56)

Rnd 3-14   ch2, dc in each st around [12 rounds] (56) 
Fasten off.



Flap

Reattach your yarn with a slip stitch to the 16th last st worked. That is, find your last stitch worked and count the next 16 stitches backwards, and that 16th stitch is where you will reattach your yarn. 

This section is worked in rows. The ch2 does not count as a stitch. 

Tip! You can adjust your button hole size at Row 5. Skip more stitches to make the button hole bigger or skip fewer stitches to make it smaller 

Row 1   ch2, dc in same st and next 9 sts (10)

Row 2-4   ch2, turn, dc in 10 sts [3 rounds] 

Row 5   ch2, turn, dc in 3 sts, ch 4, skip 4 sts, dc in last 3 sts (6) 

Row 6   ch2, turn, dc in 3 sts, dc in next 4 chains, dc in last 3 sts (10)

Fasten off. 

Now weave in the ends and sew on your button. Add lining if desired. 

Your Leap Pad 3 case is finished! I hope you enjoyed this free pattern by Roaming Pixies. I am always happy to hear your thoughts or questions or recommendations for new patterns, so feel free to comment below. 




Sunday, 15 May 2016

Free Crochet Pattern for Superman Emblem Applique

It's a bird, it's a plane, no it's a Crochet Pattern for a Superman Applique! And it's free!!! 


I crocheted the appliques to attach to winter hats for the two gorgeous 'supermen' in my life. Pictures below. 






Appliques make great fun Crochet projects. They don't require much yarn and are quick to make. Their applications are endless. Use them on your other finished crochet items to add a special touch: bags, hats, vests sweaters, blankets will all be transformed with a special applique. But appliques are not just limited to crochet items, you can sew them onto store bought clothes too, like cotton tshirts or onesies to create a unique piece of clothing. 


So here is the crochet pattern I hope you enjoy. 

Copyright

Please do not reproduce any part of this pattern without permission. As for selling Items with this pattern - Yes that is okay by me, but I am uncertain of how that would stand with the original creators of this emblem. Anyone know the copyright laws regarding this then I'd be very interested to know so please share. 


Pattern Notes

Pattern is written in US terminology


Gauge – Gauge is not important for this pattern. You can adjust hook and yarn size as desired, but keep in mind the size of finished object will vary. With Worsted/10ply yarn and 4.5mm hook my finished product measures just under 5 inches from the bottom peak to the top and approximately 5.5 inches at it's widest point. 

Materials
Main Colour – I used approximately 10 grams of Yellow yarn
Contrast Colour – I used approximately 5 gr of Red yarn
4mm and 4.5mm crochet hook



Superman Crochet Applique 

Use Main Colour Yellow and 4.5 mm hook
Note - Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. This chain does not count as a stitch

Row 1   Chain 2, sc in 2nd chain from hook (1)

Row 2   3sc in stitch (3)

Row 3   2sc in 1st st, sc in next, 2sc in last st (5)

Row 4   sc in each st across (5)

Row 5   2sc in 1st st, sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in last st (7)

Row 6   sc in each st across (7)

Row 7   2sc in 1st st, sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in last st (9)

Row 8   2sc in 1st st, sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in last st (11)

Row 9   sc in each st across (11)

Row 10   2sc in 1st st, sc in next 9 sts, 2sc in last st (13)

Row 11   2sc in 1st st, sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in last st (15)

Row 12   2sc in 1st st, sc in next 13 sts, 2sc in last st (17)

Row 13   sc in each st across (17)

Row 14   2sc in 1st st, sc in next 15 sts, 2sc in last st (19)

Row 15   sc in each st across (19)

Row 16   2sc in 1st st, sc in next 17 sts, 2sc in last st (21)

Row 17   sc in each st across (21)

Row 18   2sc in 1st st, sc in next 19 sts, 2sc in last st (23)

Row 19   2sc in 1st st, sc in next 21 sts, 2sc in last st (25)

Row 20   sc2tog, sc in next 21 sts, sc2tog (23)

Row 21   sc2tog, sc in next 19 sts, sc2tog (21)

Row 22   sc2tog, sc in next 17 sts, sc2tog (19)


Edging

Using Red yarn and 4.5 mm hook attach yarn with slip stitch to the emblem in the top right hand corner. 

Rnd 1    ch 1 (doesn’t count as st) and work sc evenly around the edges, but work 3sc increase at each corner. There will be five of these 3sc increases in total as indicated in image below.

Rnd 2    Work sc in each sc, but work 3sc increase in the centre of each 3sc increase from the previous round. 

Fasten off.  Note - If you want to sew your emblem to an item then be sure to keep enough yarn to attach the emblem. Otherwise, you can use fabric glue or even a sewing machine depending on what your project is.




The letter “S” 

Using Red yarn and 4mm hook
Ch 54

Row 1   dc in 3rd chain from hook, ch 3, slip st in same place as dc just worked, sc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 7 ch, hdc in next 4 ch, dc in next, 3trc in next ch, trc in next 10 ch, dc in next ch, sc in next ch, sc3tog, sc in next ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 9 ch, *hdc, dc* in next ch, *dc, hdc* in next ch, sc in last ch.

Fasten off leaving a sufficient length of yarn to attach the “s” to the triangle emblem. 

Now it’s time to seam the S to the emblem. I find the best way is to pin it down first in a couple places so that you are sure you are satisfied with the position. Then using the long end of thread stitch around the entire S to attach. I find working under the two loops creates the neatest finish. 

So that’s it! Your Superman (woman, girl, boy, mum, dad, cat) Crochet Emblem is now complete. Now all you have to do is attach it to your item.

I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern. Feel free to share any thoughts, ideas below. 

Saturday, 27 February 2016

Free Crochet Pattern - Mushroom Mitts

I made these mushroom inspired mittens on our trip to the snow last winter. I really like mushroom paraphernalia, and as you can see my two year old likes the mitts too. He likes the sound they make when he claps. 



I decided to omit the thumb section that is usually included for children. I find that at his younger age my toddler can't seem to keep his thumb in the thumb section of regular mitts anyway, so it seems a little pointless to go to the effort. These mitts still leave enough room for him to move his fingers around while at the same time offer protection from the cold. They are especially good for those extra cold days or snow visits. 

The pattern is very quick to make too. And easy for a beginner. I hope you enjoy the pattern and feel free to leave any comments or feedback below.

COPYRIGHT NOTICE   This pattern is copyrighted material. Please do not reproduce any part of this pattern without permission. Items created from this pattern may be sold by individuals on a small-scale, but please acknowledge Roaming Pixies as designer. Mass production is not permitted.

Materials
4.5mm Hook
Light Worsted
Dk/ 8 ply Yarn or Light Worsted (11 wpi)  – see sizes for amount

Total = 25 grams  (51.5 yd/ 47 m)
Cuff  – 11 gr (22.6 yd/ 20.6 m)
MC – 14 gr (28.9 yd/ 26.4 m)
+ small amount of white yarn for spots.

3 months – 12 months
Measurement - Bottom of Cuff to top of mitten – just 4 inches (10 cm)

Total = 30 grams (61.8 yd/ 56.5 m)
Cuff – 11 gr (22.6 yd/ 20.6 m)
Main Colour – 19 gr (39 yd/35.9 m)
+ small amount of white yarn for spots.

12 months -2 years
Measurement - Bottom of Cuff to top of mitten – 5.5 inches (14.5 cm)

Total = 40 grams  (82.4 yd/ 75.3 m)
Cuff  – 18 gr (37 yd/ 33.8 m)
CMC – 22 gr (45.4 yd/ 41.5m)
+ small amount of white yarn for spots.

Gauge
17 dc stitches and 10.5 rows per 10cm (4 inches)
Or
– (Newborn – 3 months) (3 - 12 months)  - the finished ribbed cuff section measures approximately 5 inches
  (12 months- 2 years) - the finished ribbed cuff section measures approximately 5.5 inches


Newborn – 3 months (3 months – 12 months)

 Ribbed Cuff (Make 2) 

Row 1   Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch and each ch across (8)

Row 2-20   sc in each st BLO, ch1 turn (8)

The next row you will join the two edges of your work together by working slip stitches through the last row just worked and the first row worked. 

ss 8 across joining last row to first row. 

Fasten Off and turn inside out. You now have the right side of your work facing. 

Mitts

Join Red Colour with slip stitch into top edge of cuff. Just above where you just fastened off. 

Rnd 1   work dc evenly around the cuff edge – 20 dc in total (20)

Rnd 2   dc in next st, 2dc in next (30)

Rnd 3 (3-5)   dc in each st [3 rounds for 3-12 months sizing) (30) 

Rnd 4 (6)   dc in next st, dc2tog around (20)

Rnd 5 (7)    dc2tog around (10)

Rnd 6 (8)  repeat previous round (5) 

Fasten off. Weave in end to close up hole and secure loose thread. 

Repeat for 2nd mitt.

Now you’re ready to make the white spots.


12 months -2 years


Ribbed Cuff (Make 2) 

Row 1   Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch and each ch across (10)

Row 2-24   sc in each st BLO, ch1 turn (10)

The next row you will join the two edges of your work together by working slip stitches through the last row just worked and the first row worked. 

ss 10 across joining last row to first row. 

Fasten off and turn inside out. You now have right side of your work facing. 

Mitts

Join Red Colour with slip stitch into top edge of cuff. Just above where you just fastened off. 

Rnd 1   work dc evenly around the cuff edge – 24 dc in total (24)

Rnd 2   dc in next st, 2dc in next (36)

Rnd 3-5   dc in each st around [3 rounds] (36)

Rnd 6   dc in next st, dc2tog around (24)

Rnd 7-8   dc in each st around [2 rounds] (24)

Rnd 9   dc2tog around (12)

Rnd 10   dc2tog around (6)

Fasten off. Weave in end to close up hole and secure loose thread. 

Repeat for 2nd mitt.

Now you’re ready to make the white spots.


White Spots


Small spot (Make 1)

Rnd 1   6sc in magic circle (6)


Larger spots (Make 2)

Rnd 1   6sc in magic circle (6)

Rnd 2   2sc in each st around (12)


Fasten off your spots, leaving a small length of yarn to sew the spots to the mitts. 

Weave in and secure any last ends. Your mitts are now complete. Enjoy. 

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